Sábalo
By Mason McPherson
Photo: Bajio Sunglasses
The fly line was landing gently on the water's surface cast after cast, placing the fly delicately under the mangroves. We didn't see the fish, but our guides were confident they were there. Before I knew what happened, the prehistoric shadow in the mangroves hit my fly and spit it back out. Our guide, Joel, laughed and said, "told you!". I knew I was in for a treat, but I didn't know the impact that the people, ecosystem, and fishery would leave on me.
It's an ecosystem and fishery unlike any other in the world. Nestled on the coastline of the Yucatan peninsula, Campeche holds a 150km stretch of mangroves that's home to some of the best juvenile tarpon fishing on Earth. The miles of grass flats are teeming with life and provide countless opportunities to catch a variety of species.
As the sun rose, we jumped on our skiffs and left the boardwalk in our rear view. A short 20-minute boat ride to hit the coastline of dense mangroves. The only thing we had to worry about was what the tarpon wanted for breakfast. The cool and early morning presents the grass flat as water-like glass, only stirring when trying to delicately land your fly. The silence and stillness are mesmerizing. That is, until you see the water begin to boil. Pods of juvenile tarpon in groups as big as 20 begin to disturb the flats. Their dorsal fins making figure 8s as they feed on crustaceans and baitfish hiding in the grass.
It's an ecosystem and fishery unlike any other in the world. Nestled on the coastline of the Yucatan peninsula, Campeche holds a 150km stretch of mangroves that's home to some of the best juvenile tarpon fishing on Earth. The miles of grass flats are teeming with life and provide countless opportunities to catch a variety of species.
As the sun rose, we jumped on our skiffs and left the boardwalk in our rear view. A short 20-minute boat ride to hit the coastline of dense mangroves. The only thing we had to worry about was what the tarpon wanted for breakfast. The cool and early morning presents the grass flat as water-like glass, only stirring when trying to delicately land your fly. The silence and stillness are mesmerizing. That is, until you see the water begin to boil. Pods of juvenile tarpon in groups as big as 20 begin to disturb the flats. Their dorsal fins making figure 8s as they feed on crustaceans and baitfish hiding in the grass.
"Sabala 3 o'clock, 20 feet!" our guides, Pechu and Joel, would say with excitement. False cast twice, then land the fly - the perfect recipe.
Splash - the fly lands and the fun begins. "Strip, strip, strip!".
Immediate chaos erupts as the tarpon chase the fly through the grass, fighting others for a chance at an easy meal. My heart raced and arms cramped as I stripped the fly line through my hand, taunting the tarpon to smash the fly.
Swing and a miss. I turned around to Pechu cracking up, mocking my trout-set.
A day of juvenile tarpon fishing is a day of constant hunting, keeping your eyes peeled in the shadows that the mangroves provide. There's no point in checking your watch for the time because you're at the mercy of the tides. Your day of fishing begins and ends when Mother Nature decides. End the day too late, and you will find yourself sleeping amongst the mangroves as the receding tide creates an island of grass several hundred yards out to the deep sea. Deep into the night, the tides flood the dense forest of mangroves sprouting from the ocean floor, providing a lush habitat for tarpon, snook, and barracuda.
Finding a channel in the mangroves barely wide enough for our skiff, we used the branches to pull our way through the jungle until it opened to a lagoon boiling with tarpon. A seemingly easy opportunity to get on more fish, but it's not that easy. The mangroves are sure to test your casting ability. A back-cast too long and you are sure to snag on the soft leaves and branches. The constantly changing networks and channels in the mangroves create new sanctuaries and feeding grounds for the hungry tarpon. Find an opening in the mangroves and you are sure to find more tarpon.
Native to Campeche, the guides of Campeche Tarpon know that stretch of mangroves like the back of their hand. Navigating the coast with a map engraved in their brain and the ability to spot a tailing tarpon a hundred yards away in the shadows. All day, every day, poling us around with no complaints and a smile on their face, their energy and positivity is contagious. Their dedication to guiding is second-to-none, and their attitudes mirror their love for Campeche and the fishery it provides. The job doesn't pay well, and it's hard work, but that doesn't hinder their desire to provide the best experience possible. It's a direct reflection of the culture of the people who call this historical city home.
Splash - the fly lands and the fun begins. "Strip, strip, strip!".
Immediate chaos erupts as the tarpon chase the fly through the grass, fighting others for a chance at an easy meal. My heart raced and arms cramped as I stripped the fly line through my hand, taunting the tarpon to smash the fly.
Swing and a miss. I turned around to Pechu cracking up, mocking my trout-set.
A day of juvenile tarpon fishing is a day of constant hunting, keeping your eyes peeled in the shadows that the mangroves provide. There's no point in checking your watch for the time because you're at the mercy of the tides. Your day of fishing begins and ends when Mother Nature decides. End the day too late, and you will find yourself sleeping amongst the mangroves as the receding tide creates an island of grass several hundred yards out to the deep sea. Deep into the night, the tides flood the dense forest of mangroves sprouting from the ocean floor, providing a lush habitat for tarpon, snook, and barracuda.
Finding a channel in the mangroves barely wide enough for our skiff, we used the branches to pull our way through the jungle until it opened to a lagoon boiling with tarpon. A seemingly easy opportunity to get on more fish, but it's not that easy. The mangroves are sure to test your casting ability. A back-cast too long and you are sure to snag on the soft leaves and branches. The constantly changing networks and channels in the mangroves create new sanctuaries and feeding grounds for the hungry tarpon. Find an opening in the mangroves and you are sure to find more tarpon.
Native to Campeche, the guides of Campeche Tarpon know that stretch of mangroves like the back of their hand. Navigating the coast with a map engraved in their brain and the ability to spot a tailing tarpon a hundred yards away in the shadows. All day, every day, poling us around with no complaints and a smile on their face, their energy and positivity is contagious. Their dedication to guiding is second-to-none, and their attitudes mirror their love for Campeche and the fishery it provides. The job doesn't pay well, and it's hard work, but that doesn't hinder their desire to provide the best experience possible. It's a direct reflection of the culture of the people who call this historical city home.
Photo: Mason McPherson
"It's an ecosystem and fishery unlike any other in the world. Nestled on the coastline of the Yucatan peninsula, Campeche holds a 150km stretch of mangroves that's home to some of the best juvenile tarpon fishing on Earth."
On our last evening, a downpour erupted and left us doubtful as we feared our final day of fishing would be cut short. I turned to Pechu and asked what the plan was. He smiled and said, "perfect weather for tarpon". That was an understatement. Cast after cast led to hooking into snook and tarpon, all while the rain and thunder continued.
It's hard to not focus on the legendary fishing, but once you get off the skiff onto dry land you realize there's so much more to the city than its fishery. One thing is for sure: there's no shortage of things to see and do in Campeche. A day trip to the Mayan ruins or an evening in the city's historical downtown provided the unique opportunity to experience the culture. A sense of pride flows in the city's people, for great reason. The cobblestone streets are filled with friendly faces and a culture that's just happy to see you having a good time. Local flavors and cuisines are all over downtown, whether it's grilled octopus or fresh snook ceviche, you won't find a bad meal anywhere.
A trip to Campeche is sure to leave you hungry for wanting more. The scenery, city, fishery, and the people provide and experience and opportunity like no other. I'm thankful, grateful, and humbled by my time in Campeche and left with a great appreciation for the people and the culture. Not to mention my new ad diction to catching and fighting juvenile tarpon. Thank you, Campeche, I can't wait to return.
Mason McPherson, 24, Oklahoma
Mason is currently pursuing an MBA through The University Oklahoma. He grew up fly fishing for bass and trout, and has grown to love saltwater fly fishing on the Texas coast and in Campeche.
It's hard to not focus on the legendary fishing, but once you get off the skiff onto dry land you realize there's so much more to the city than its fishery. One thing is for sure: there's no shortage of things to see and do in Campeche. A day trip to the Mayan ruins or an evening in the city's historical downtown provided the unique opportunity to experience the culture. A sense of pride flows in the city's people, for great reason. The cobblestone streets are filled with friendly faces and a culture that's just happy to see you having a good time. Local flavors and cuisines are all over downtown, whether it's grilled octopus or fresh snook ceviche, you won't find a bad meal anywhere.
A trip to Campeche is sure to leave you hungry for wanting more. The scenery, city, fishery, and the people provide and experience and opportunity like no other. I'm thankful, grateful, and humbled by my time in Campeche and left with a great appreciation for the people and the culture. Not to mention my new ad diction to catching and fighting juvenile tarpon. Thank you, Campeche, I can't wait to return.
Mason McPherson, 24, Oklahoma
Mason is currently pursuing an MBA through The University Oklahoma. He grew up fly fishing for bass and trout, and has grown to love saltwater fly fishing on the Texas coast and in Campeche.